Sunday, November 27, 2011

Cadiz

This Saturday we hopped on the last train of the day to Cadiz with no planning and only a shoulder bag.  Ali's mom had agreed to watch the kids and we felt reasonably assured she could survive the requisite 24 hours.  We arrived after dark and roamed the narrow city streets in search of a hotel.  After a while, we solicited the advice of a taxi driver and found a descent spot for the night.  Following a nice dinner, we collapsed into the king size bed in the hotel for a rare opportunity to sleep in.

The next day we walked the town and enjoyed the perfect weather.  Cadiz is a peninsula that juts out into the Atlantic and is protected by huge sea walls.  It has an undeniable "port town" feel.  I am sure in bygone days Cadiz has served as a stopover for many a scurvy afflicted salty sailor.  We had a nice, relaxing day exploring the town.  Enjoy a few pics.  The ones with the views of the city are from the tower of the main cathedral.













- Dave

Feliz día de acción de gracias!

Happy Thanksgiving from Sevilla.

As you may have heard, Thanksgiving is not a European holiday, so with turkey day looming we started the search for a place to celebrate the years good harvest.  Of course, by search I mean we googled "Sevilla" and "Thanksgiving dinner", and within about 30 seconds, had 3 options for dinner.  I knew there had to be someone trying to make a buck off the ex-pats and travelers living here.  So with high hopes and low expectations we packed up our stretch limo stroller and headed out to Santa Cruz for some turkey.








The food turned out to be pretty darn good and we had a great waiter who was really nice to the kids.  As a bonus, we had a small, cozy room to ourselves.  This was perfect as the kids could roam around and explore a bit.  The decorations were, well, eclectic.  The walls were checkered with old bullfighting photos and the perimeter of the room was decorated with old TVs and fans, the manner of which you may find in a swap meet.  The lighting was soft, yellow, and tranquil.  This was a big improvement over the normal prison lighting you find in many restaurants in Sevilla.

Our first course began with a pumpkin soup followed by turkey served as medallions with a cranberry sauce.  The presentation was artistic and the flavors worked well together.  Dessert was an apple tart.  All things considered, they did a great job and we had a very nice dinner.  The kids ate bread.

Happy Thanksgiving  and take a few moments to reflect on and appreciate the good and beautiful things in life.

-Dave

Wednesday, November 23, 2011

Becoming expats

My pink eye has finally cleared up so I've decided to celebrate by writing on the blog today.  For those who have been following my parade of illnesses, yes, of course, I got a nasty case of pink eye over the weekend which required yet another trip to the pharmacy to beg for a prescription medication without a prescription.  The pharmacist saw my red, inflamed, oozing eye and took pity and quickly got me a bottle of drops.  I'm glad I checked the bottle because there was a picture of an ear on it and after pointing that out, she switched it out for the EYE drops.  At least I can laugh about it now.   

It's been a great week otherwise with my mother and sister visiting. The weather has cooled significantly and I was able to wear in my new boots as I led them all around the city showing them all the things I find beautiful and interesting.  During our outings I began to realize how much has changed since our first few weeks here.  I no longer need a map. This is a huge accomplishment when you consider how complex the old city center is with its meandering streets, some filled with cars and buses and some pedestrian.  All the streets change names numerous times and most are of religious origin.  Not easy!

Tourist:  "Excuse me, I am looking for Calle Jesus.... something.  Can you help me?"

Me:  "Sure!  Is it Jesus de la Pasion, Jesus del Gran Poder, or Jesus de las Tres Caidas?"

I have also gotten skilled at avoiding the dog and horse excrement everywhere.  And the noise and pollution have sort of become a background annoyance.  I have come to accept the fact that Spanish people as a whole are just not the friendliest or most patient people.  These small changes have allowed me to start to enjoy the beauty of the city.   Dave and I have our favorite spots to eat, our favorite wines, our favorite streets to walk.  We have found great parks for the girls and Camila has stopped asking to go back to "my Tampa."  They seem to thoroughly enjoy school and they are speaking more and more Spanish everyday.  Dave is also doing very well with his Spanish and has had a great opportunity of speaking a lot of it with my family here in town.  So as I walked around town with my mom and my sister I realized that I finally feel more like I live here, and less like I struggle here.  

I know Dave mentioned it in an earlier blog, but I want to say again what an awesome time we had with Tony and Raquel who were in town last weekend for the music festival.  It was definitely an emotional boost for me.  Last month we also had another fantastically fun evening with Deborah and Scott who were here from St. Louis.  These visits from friends and family have simultaneously helped soothe the homesick feelings and allowed us to enjoy the city through visitors eyes.  

 Out with my mom and sister.  It was a wet day, but we still had fun!

View from the very top of the Metropol parasol.

Presidential elections were held this past Sunday and there have been many protests leading up to it.  We've seen a few while out and about, but this past Friday night we were lucky enough to have one march right outside our front door!  We heard a lot of police sirens at first and ran and opened our french doors to see what was going on.  The police cleared the street of all traffic for the protesters (and it's a very busy five lane street) and we had a prime view from our balcony.  It seemed to me there were like a thousand people marching and when the very first ones reached outside our building they suddenly stopped and sat down!  They stayed for ten minutes or so in that position, chanting and singing and blocking all the traffic.  It was surreal.  Camila was frightened but Isa was very intrigued by all the commotion.

Here's a picture and a video clip...






I just learned from the news today that unemployment in Spain is expected to hit 23% in the next quarter!! That is unbelievable and the frustration of the people is felt everywhere.  They have elected a new president so hopefully the new leadership will work harder to stabilize this dire situation.

~ Ali


Saturday, November 19, 2011

A hard rain's a-gonna fall

It’s a lazy, rainy Saturday here in Sevilla.  I am sitting in our interior courtyard listening to the rain as the kids run around like wild Indians.  Ali and her family took the bus to the market to resupply the pantry.  Food is going fast now that we have six people in the house.  This leaves me home alone with the little maniacs for an indeterminate amount of time.  I believe they call this “quality time”.

 Courtyard, looking up

The girls helping out

On Thursday night Ali and I snuck out after the kids and the elderly fell asleep.  We headed over to the Alameda de Hercules as I wanted to show her where I spend my afternoons.  The weather was cool and crisp making it a great night for a stroll.  The Alameda is a long, wide pedestrian boulevard bordered by many cafes, bars, restaurants, and apartment buildings.  It’s a little more edgy and gritty than the main tourist center and a variety of  tree-huggers, hippies, gypsies, and individualists (for lack of a better word) call it home.  Some remind me of the Portland “hipsters” for whom my brother is so fond.

 The happy couple

The good looking one

We ducked into a restaurant with a nice outdoor seating area and an elegant tapas menu that I had scouted out earlier in the week.  The chef is Uruguayan and the tapas have a clear South American influence.  The food was delicious and the warm, perfectly lit patio had a romantic ambiance.  When you go, make sure to order the risotto and the arrepitas.  Que rico!


After dinner we headed to a small jazz bar on the South side of the Alameda.  The joint was tiny and packed with a local crowd.  Half the crowd seemed to be musicians and they were rotating in and out of the jam session.  It reminded me of the bluegrass jam sessions I have seen at Jack o' the Wood in Asheville, except jazz.   They were doing the old blue-note style jazz that I love.  If you closed your eyes you were transported to 60’s era Harlem with the sounds of Cannonball Adderley and John Coltrane cutting through the smokey club air.  Afterwards, we be-bopped and skedaddled on home.

 
Naima Cafe Jazz

Tonight we are going out to dinner with the whole crew so wish us luck.  After dinner I will return home with the kids and Ali and her mother and sister are heading to a Flamenco show.  Good afternoon from Sevilla and please check in on us again soon. 

-Dave


Thursday, November 17, 2011

Today's Photos

Once again, a few photos courtesy of the iPhone 4 during my commute to "work" today. 
Thank you Steve Jobs!  You are an American icon.

Our building 

 Typical neighborhood church

 Move it along ladies! You're blocking
my Escalade ESV

 Still searching for Bar Kiko I

 El centro
The shopping district 

 El Centro 

 Church of El Salvador

 Manzanilla is a chamomile infused wine in Andalucia

Sun-soaked building in El Arenal

 Art shot

 La Alameda de Hercules

 Roman columns; rumor has it Hercules 
founded Sevilla

 Houses along the Alameda

 Hanging out in a cafe waiting for class

 Another day, another church 

If you park your car under Jesus 
it won't get stolen 
(unwritten rule here)

Wednesday, November 16, 2011

Illness/injury update and more!

I am happy to report my daughter's life threatening rash (maternal perception; in this parenthetical the father is cool, calm, and collected) has resolved.  Of course she has started on another cold, but that's business as usual as all of you with little ones in daycare/preschool know.  Camila continues to be well and mommy is finally over her cough.  As for me, I have contracted Isa's cold, the viral particles likely hitching a ride during one of her trademark snotty bedtime kisses.  No pasa nada, I will drown it in beer.

Onward.

Ali's family is here and everyone is having a good time.  They are working their way through the sites of Sevilla and are even doing day trips to Cordoba and Granada this week.  For their age (which I can't publish here for fear of death), their stamina is admirable.  Granada will be a particularly long day for them.  The tour bus picks them up at 6:30am and they return to Sevilla at 7pm.  That is already a long day, but what they don't know is I will be dragging them to the Tiefshwarz show later that night.  Tiefshwarz is an electro-house duo from Stuttgart, Germany.  They are playing in Sevilla this Friday night and come on around 3am, so I guess we'll see how much stamina they really have.  Insert a Mr. Burns evil laugh here.

Now for lighter fare:

And you thought you were serious about your nativity scenes?  I know I was... until now.  Come to Sevilla and see how the pros do it.  All the vendors pictured below only sell nativity scene accessories.

There is a baby Jesus to fit any budget.

All of baby Jesus's visitors.



Miniature loaves of bread, vegetables, baskets, etc.



Today was a nice afternoon for photos.  On the way to my Spanish lessons  I took a few.

 Self-Portrait

 Roman columns
Alameda de Hercules

 Yes, that street is called Lost Boy.

My tutor's building

 How to navigate narrow streets
 with your preschoolers

Typical street on the way


I hope today is finding everyone well. 
Hasta Luego.

-Dave